Safe
And Effective Flea Control
by Richard H. Pitcairn,
D.V.M., Ph.D.and Susan Hubble Pitcairn
Authors of Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide To Natural Health for Dogs
& Cats
The best approach to controlling fleas is to start with the least toxic
and most natural choices, resorting to stronger measures only if
reasonable control is not achieved. As a prerequisite to any flea-control
program, I recommend building up your animal's health and resistance as
much as possible through a healthy diet and lifestyle. Along with that,
it's important to practice thorough sanitation and cleaning.
Understanding the life cycle of the flea makes it clear why cleaning is so
important. Adult fleas live about three to four months. During that time
they are steadily laying tiny white eggs on your pet that look like
dandruff or salt crystals. Flea eggs hatch out into larvae that live in
the cracks and crevices of rugs, upholstery, blankets, floors, sand,
earth, and the like.
Because these tiny larvae cannot jump or travel very far (less than an
inch), they feed on the black specks of dried blood ("flea
dirt") that fall off along with the eggs during grooming and
scratching. After one to two weeks, the larvae go through a cocoon stage
(pupa). A week or two later, they hatch out as small fleas that hop onto
the nearest warm body passing by (usually your pet -- sometimes you!),
bite it for a meal of blood, and then start the whole process all over
again. This cycle takes anywhere from 2 to 20 weeks, depending on the
temperature of the house or environment. During summer -- flea season --
the entire cycle is usually just 2 weeks long. That's why fleas increase
so rapidly at that time.
The bad news is that, no matter how many adult fleas you manage to kill,
numerous future fleas are developing in the environment simultaneously.
The good news is that these eggs, larvae, pupa, and the flea dirt they
feed upon can be sucked up by a vacuum cleaner or washed away in the
laundry. And because the developing fleas are so immobile, they are most
concentrated wherever your pet sleeps, so you know where to focus your
efforts.
Your important ally in the battle against fleas is cleanliness, both for
your pet and your home, particularly in your pet's sleeping areas. Regular
cleaning interrupts the life cycles of the fleas and greatly cuts down on
the number of adult fleas that end up on your pet, especially if you act
before flea season begins. So start your program with these nontoxic
steps.
Steam clean your carpets at the onset of flea season (or whenever you
begin your flea-control program). Though it is somewhat expensive, steam
cleaning is effective in killing flea eggs.
Thoroughly vacuum and clean floors and furniture at least once a week to
pick up flea eggs, larvae, and pupae. Concentrate on areas where your pet
sleeps and use an attachment to reach into crevices and corners and under
heavy furniture. If there is a heavy infestation, you may want to put a
flea collar (or part of a flea collar) in the vacuum bag to kill any adult
fleas that get sucked up and might crawl away. Or else immediately dispose
of the bag or its contents because it can provide a warm, moist,
food-filled
environment for developing eggs and larvae. Mop vinyl floors.
Launder your pet's bedding in hot, soapy water at least once a week. Dry
on maximum heat. Heat will kill all stages of flea life, including the
eggs. Remember that flea eggs are very slippery and easily fall off
bedding or blankets. So carefully roll bedclothes up to keep all the flea
eggs contained on the way to the washing machine.
Bathe the animal with a natural flea-control shampoo. Use a nontoxic
shampoo as recommended above, such as one containing d-limonene (dogs
only).
Use a flea comb to trap and kill fleas that are on your pet. Most pet
stores carry special fine-toothed combs that trap fleas for easy disposal.
Make a regular habit of flea-combing your pet while you watch TV or talk
on the phone. Depending on the degree of infestation and the time of year,
this might be daily (at the onset of the flea season), weekly, or
monthly.
Gently but thoroughly comb as many areas as your pet will allow,
especially around the head, neck, back, and hindquarters. As you trap the
little buggers, pull them off the comb and plunge them into a container of
hot, soapy water (or dip the comb and pull the flea off underwater). Cover
your lap with an old towel to catch extra clumps of hair and flea dirt and
to wipe the comb off as you work.
When you're finished, flush the soapy water and fleas down the
toilet.
If your pet goes outdoors, follow these steps as well.
Mow and water your lawn regularly. Short grass allows sunlight to
penetrate and warm the soil, which kills larvae. Watering drowns the
developing fleas.
Encourage ants. Perhaps I should say "do not discourage ants."
They love to eat flea eggs and larvae. This is another reason not to use
pesticides that kill all the insects in your yard.
"Sterilize" bare-earth sleeping spots. If your pet likes to
sleep or hang out in a certain bare or sandy area, occasionally cover the
spot with a heavy black plastic sheet on a hot, sunny day. Rake up any
dead leaves and other debris first. The heat that builds up under the
plastic does an excellent job of killing fleas and larvae. Of course, this
is not appropriate to use where you want to preserve live grass or
plants.
Apply agricultural lime on grassy or moist areas. This helps to dry out
the fleas. Rake up any dead leaves and grassy debris first.
Along with the above steps, you might try these methods to repel fleas
that may try to jump back on your pet, especially those harder-to-kill
ones hanging out in the backyard.
Use an herbal flea powder. You'll find them in pet stores and natural food
stores, or you can make your own. Combine one part each of as many of
these powdered herbs as you can find: eucalyptus, rosemary, fennel, yellow
dock, wormwood, and rue. Put this mixture in a shaker-top jar, such as a
jar for parsley flakes.
Apply the flea powder sparingly to your pet's coat by brushing backward
with your hand or the comb and sprinkling it into the base of the hairs,
especially on the neck, back, and belly. To combat severe infestations,
use several times a week. Afterward, put your animal friend outside for
awhile so the disgruntled tenants vacate in the yard and not in your
house. Some herbal flea powders also contain natural pyrethrins, which are
not strong flea-killers but do seem to greatly discourage them.
Use an herbal flea collar. These are impregnated with insect-repellent
herbal oils. Some are made to be "recharged" with the oils and
used again. Buy them at natural food stores.
Try a natural skin tonic. The animal herbalist Juliette de Bairacli-Levy
recommends this lemon skin tonic, which many of my clients successfully
use on their pets for a general skin toner, parasite repellent, and
treatment for mange.
Thinly slice a whole lemon, including the peel. Add it to 1 pint of
near-boiling water and let it steep overnight. The next day, sponge the
solution onto the animal's skin and let it dry. You can use this daily for
severe skin problems involving fleas. It is a source of natural
flea-killing substances such as d-limonene and other healing ingredients
found in the whole lemon.
Add ample nutritional or brewer's yeast and garlic to the diet. Some
studies show yeast supplementation significantly reduces flea numbers,
though others indicate no effect. My experience with using yeast is that
it has some favorable effect, particularly if the animal's health is good.
You can also rub it directly into the animal's hair. Many people also
praise the value of garlic as a flea repellent, though so far studies do
not support this.
If these methods do not control the fleas sufficiently, take the following
steps.
Get your carpets treated with a special anti-flea mineral salt. There have
been some developments in safe flea control. My clients report success
with a service that applies or sells relatively nontoxic mineral salts for
treating carpets. (Fleabusters is the company recommended.) Effective for
up to a year, the products safely kill fleas and their developing forms
over a few week's time.
Once or twice a year, sprinkle natural, unrefined diatomaceous earth along
walls, under furniture, and in cracks and crevices that you cannot access
with a vacuum. This product, which resembles chalky rock, is really the
fossilized remains of one-celled algae. Though direct skin contact is
harmless to pets and people, it is bad news for many insects and their
larvae, including fleas. The fine particles in the earth kill insects by
attacking the waxy coating that covers their external skeletons. The
insects then dry out and die.
I do not recommend using diatomaceous earth frequently or directly on your
animal -- mostly because of the irritating dust that can be breathed in by
both of you. It is also messy. Be careful about breathing it in. Wear a
dust mask when applying. It is not toxic, but inhaling even the natural,
unrefined form of this dust can irritate the nasal passages.
Important: Do not use the type of diatomaceous earth that is sold for
swimming pool filters. It has been very finely ground, and the tiny
particles can be breathed into the lungs and cause chronic
inflammation.
Use a spray or powder containing pyrethrins or natural pyrethrum. These
are the least toxic of all the insecticides used on pets, and they are
found in both conventional and natural flea-control products. For a more
lasting effect, use a microencapsulated product, which is perhaps labeled
"slow release." Repeat the applications as you simultaneously
use the carpet treatment system or diatomaceous earth. This will help kill
both adult fleas and developing fleas at the same time.
__________________
Reprinted from: Dr. Pitcairn's Complete Guide to Natural Health for
Dogs & Cats by Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M, Ph.D., and Susan Hubble
Pitcairn (September 2005;$18.95US/$25.95CAN; 1-57954-973-X) Copyright C
2005 Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M., Ph.D., and Susan Hubble Pitcairn.
Permission granted by Rodale, Inc., Emmaus, PA 18098. Available wherever
books are sold or
directly from the publisher by calling (800) 848-4735 or visit their
website at www.rodalestore.com
Richard H. Pitcairn, D.V.M, Ph.D., opened the Animal Natural Health
Center, a clinic offering only holistic animal care, in 1985. Recently
retired from practice, he teaches post-graduate courses in homeopathic
medicine to veterinarians.
Susan Hubble Pitcairn was a major contributor to the first two
editions of this book. As the third edition goes to press, she is
splitting her time between artistic pursuits and the support of positive
social change.
For more information, please visit www.drpitcairn.com.
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